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> Mediterranean cooking

Papaioannou in Kefalari: A taste of the sea in the northern suburbs

Papaioannou, the go-to spot for seafood lovers thanks to chef Giorgos Papaioannou, has been expanding across Athens since 2021, starting with their first location in Kefalari

Newsroom July 31 06:35

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When renovations were needed at their original spot near Mikrolimano Marina, the famous restaurant made the move all the way to the lush, green Kefalari area in Kifisia. The stunning 19th-century mansion that houses the boutique hotel “The Kefalari Suites” offers a beautiful terrace, creating the perfect setting for Papaioannou’s obsession with fresh, top-quality ingredients—bringing the sea straight to your plate.

The kitchen’s magic shines through in the simplicity of the dishes, letting the fresh flavors and aromas of the seafood take center stage. Among the favorites are the raw dishes, where the quality really stands out. Take, for example, the sea bass sashimi with lemon oil dressing—silky, rich fish paired with a perfectly balanced dressing that complements without overpowering. The red shrimp ceviche from Koilada is another highlight, with its velvety sweetness and buttery texture that just melts in your mouth.

Surrounded by a green pine tree frame, the spacious terrace features large tables dressed with crisp white tablecloths and comfy wrought-iron chairs. The vibe feels like a luxury Mediterranean resort—relaxed and elegant. Inside, white walls showcase striking black-and-white photos of the grand mansions of Symi, while the marble bar, fish display case, Viennese sofas, and vintage lanterns add warmth and charm. It’s understated sophistication with a calm, luxurious feel.

The grilled sardines arrive filleted, paired with a fresh salsa of chopped tomato and onion that brightens up the crispy skin. The fried calamari are perfectly crunchy on the outside, tender inside, delivering that classic seafood delight. But it’s the fried filleted anchovies that steal the show—they’re irresistible, crispy chips bursting with a salty, iodine-rich flavor with every bite. Heads up though: don’t ask for the famous fried filleted red mullet—it’s out of season and not on the menu right now.

Next up was a juicy, fragrant grilled stira (a type of fish) served with a crispy salty side. We doused it in lemon oil and dove into pure seafood bliss. From the pasta options, we went for the kritharoto (barley risotto) with fresh cuttlefish—perfectly cooked with a rich broth and tender shellfish.

We wrapped up with a mini dessert sampler—deconstructed baklava, ekmek kataifi, and pavlova topped with forest fruit coulis and strawberry sorbet. Each one was fantastic and a sweet end to the meal.

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As we left, our eyes caught the expensive cars parked outside—a sign of the crowd that fills the tables: a mix of old money, new money, business dinners, and couples out for a nice night. Regulars greet each other, exchange a few words—it’s a chill spot for fresh, summery seafood away from the crowded southern parts of the city.

Info:
Papaioannou
32 Kolokotroni Street, Kefalari, Kifisia
Tel: +30 210 7546046

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