In 2021, Clare Smyth’s London restaurant Core was awarded three Michelin stars, a distinction she proudly retains to this day. The Northern Irish chef recently visited Greece for a special night at Sani Gourmet, where she shared her thoughts on the industry, the future of women in professional kitchens, and the lessons she learned from her mentor, Gordon Ramsay.
Breaking Barriers for Women in Professional Kitchens
“When I started cooking 20 years ago, I was often the only woman in the kitchen,” Clare reflects. “Back then, you had to be twice as good as a man to be treated the same. You had to be significantly better just to be considered equal. Even today, women don’t receive the same pay or treatment, and we tend to judge ourselves more harshly. We feel the need to know something perfectly before making decisions, which isn’t always the case for our male counterparts. It’s ingrained in us because we’ve been judged our whole lives. But things are changing rapidly. I see it in the younger generation—gender doesn’t define how they’re perceived. When I look at my kitchen team, I see a diverse group that coexists naturally, without judgment based on gender or size. They are the future, and I believe they won’t face the same criticisms or sideways glances.”
Clare’s Cooking Philosophy
“I can’t say that my cooking is inherently feminine, though I’ve thought about it. No, it’s more about how you approach your ingredients and your craft. I’ve seen male chefs, some quite large, cooking with incredible sensitivity and creating very delicate dishes.
My style is influenced by my French training, but also by my roots—I’m the daughter of farmers, so I have a deep respect for the land and its produce. I love making delicate dishes, but I also want my food to be nourishing, and to convey a sense of care. For example, I serve a simple broth, made from meat bones and trimmings, but there’s so much more behind it. I want my food to do good, to hold all the goodness of what we eat. It should be both nourishing and evoke a sense of nostalgia and tenderness.
There’s a lot of Ireland in my cooking—humility, the sea, and the root vegetables we love. That grounded simplicity is important to me. I strive to stay true to my roots and connect my food to my DNA, my culture, and my way of life. For instance, here in Greece, you have amazing eggplants, but I wouldn’t cook with them because they aren’t part of my cultural repertoire. Ultimately, I believe the most important thing is honesty in your food—it should reflect who you are and where you come from.”
Mentorship from Gordon Ramsay
“Working with Gordon Ramsay was both easy and tough, but I enjoyed it. Gordon tells you exactly what he wants, and he tells you immediately, not later. He’s very straightforward. He’s also extremely generous and knowledgeable—he’s been my mentor to this day. He’s charismatic and a truly special person. It’s ironic, though, because Gordon was the first chef to entrust his kitchen to a woman, which might surprise people given his personality.
When I was younger, I had talent and ability, but I was shy. He used to tell me, ‘Margaret Thatcher was a shy young woman, but she learned to lead a country. I’ll teach you how to lead, too.’ Gordon’s an extraordinary mentor. I’ve met amazing people along the way who believed in me, and I think that’s crucial for women today—to have people who trust them, believe in them, and empower them. It’s important to have someone who has your back, who says, ‘I’m here for you. You make your decisions, and I’ll support you.’”
Maintaining Three Michelin Stars
“When I was younger, I used to stress a lot about keeping the Michelin stars. Today, I stay focused on my work and put all my energy into what I do. The three stars are incredibly important, but the day-to-day focus is on the restaurant, the business, and the guests. Everything we do is for them.
I’ve recently opened another restaurant in Sydney, Oncore, and I’m working on a new one in London, with another project in the planning stages. I’ve also thought about returning to Ireland, but it’s too soon for that. If I had to sum it up in a few words: British food is good!”
