Thessaloniki does not have an off switch. The question is never whether people are out, but where they have moved to since you last checked – from the kafeneion (cafe) in the morning to the meze table at noon, from the aperitivo hour to the bar that was supposed to be a quick stop and turned into the whole evening. The city runs on this logic, and the places that understand it tend to do well here.

Twelve new addresses have opened recently, and none of them are alike. These are the ones worth knowing now.

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