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Sleeping in the Towers of Mani: A Drive Through Greece’s Most Defiant Landscape

On the Peloponnese's wild southern tip, fortress homes built by feuding clans are now the region's finest small hotels

Newsroom August 5 10:04

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At the southern tip of the Peloponnese, on the middle of the three peninsulas that reach into the Mediterranean like fingers, lies the Mani, one of Greece’s most storied and least tamed regions. This is not the Greece of whitewashed island postcards. It is a land of fierce clans who built stone towers instead of houses, of villages that repelled invaders for centuries, and of a coastline where sheer cliffs drop into water of an almost implausible darkest blue. Its beauty reveals itself gradually. It takes a second glance to notice how the stone that abounds here has been shaped into tower houses, roads, charming little cottages, sturdy walls and grand mansions. In other words, how this seemingly “barren” material has, in fact, created wealth.

That second glance is exactly what this route is designed for. What follows is a drive through the stone villages of the Mani, from the tiny seaside cove of Limeni to Areopoli, a town that feels lifted from the medieval era, on to the hauntingly abandoned towers of Vathia at the peninsula’s wild southern edge, and finally to Gytheio, a graceful neoclassical harbour town on the Laconian Gulf. And because a landscape this demanding rewards those who linger, each stop comes with the places worth staying the night: restored tower houses, family-run hideaways and polished seaside retreats, all built from the same stone that defines everything here.
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