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Where Byzantium still breathes: A Long Weekend in Koroni

A guide to sleeping, eating and wandering in one of the Peloponnese's most poetic fortress towns

Newsroom April 7 11:51

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The journey south from Athens unfolds like a classical narrative: first along the pristine Tripoli-Kalamata highway, then veering west toward Messini, where the modern world begins to recede. Past Petalidi, the road becomes a ribbon of asphalt hugging the Messinian Gulf, threading through ancient olive groves and drowsy villages, each curve revealing another glimpse of the eternal Aegean. Here, at the peninsula’s tip, rises Koroni’s Venetian fortress, a limestone sentinel where two seas meet – the Messinian Gulf surrendering to the Ionian’s deeper blues.

Koroni, the town’s very name, carries centuries of survival in its syllables. What we now call Koroni was once Asini, until the 7th century when Byzantine villagers fled their vulnerable coastal settlement—then named Koroni, now Petalidi—seeking refuge behind the fortified heights of Asini. They brought with them not just their possessions but their identity, bestowing their old town’s name upon their new sanctuary. As Asini faded into myth, Koroni emerged, a testament to the endurance of both place and memory.

Read more at Travel.gr/en

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