We arrived in Kardamili after a journey of about an hour from Areopolis. Leaving behind the Laconian Mani, with its stone, barren land, and steep coastlines, we entered the Messinian Mani, also known as Aposkieri. Here, the landscape becomes greener, with hills full of olive trees and a gentler coastline. However, the architecture still reminds us that we are in Mani. In Messinian Mani, Old Kardamili stands out as the most beautiful example of Mani architecture.
Old Kardamili is located a short distance from the newer settlement. Essentially, it is a fortified complex of buildings where historical families of the area used to reside. At the beginning of 1821, Theodoros Kolokotronis was hosted in this complex by Panagiotis Troupakis-Mourtzinos. Kolokotronis, wanted by the Turks, sought refuge within Kardamili’s fortified walls. There, he met with the chieftains of the region, who took the lead in the Revolution that soon followed. Cooperation among the powerful families of Mani was crucial for the Peloponnesian Revolution to begin and develop, achieved through the Treaty of Kitria.
One of the most impressive buildings within the small castle town is the church of Agios Spyridon, the family church of the Murtzinos family. Built-in the early 18th century, this post-Byzantine architectural marvel is made of sandstone and marble. Its bell tower, originating from the Ionian Islands, is considered one of the most beautiful among Greek churches. On March 21, 1821, a eulogy was held in this church with Kolokotronis, Petrobeis Mavromichalis, and other important chieftains present. Two days later, Greek forces liberated Kalamata.
You can learn more about the area’s history at the Troupakidon-Mourtzinos Mansion, an impressive fortress-type building now operating as a museum. Besides the exhibits and interesting information, the view from the tower windows is worth the visit.
Inside Old Kardamili, there’s also an excellent restaurant that emphasizes Maniac flavors. Everything here is selected based on seasonality and quality, combined with traditional recipes, some with a modern twist.
Even if you’re just passing through, a stop at Old Kardamili is highly recommended. The history and charm of Mani are concentrated in this small corner of Messinia.
Tips and Information for a Trip to Kardamyli and Messinian Mani
- Location: Kardamili is 273 kilometers from Athens, 36 kilometers from Kalamata, and 45 kilometers from Areopolis in Laconian Mani.
- Natural Attractions: Western Mani is famous for its gorges, with the Byros gorge offering 19 kilometers of natural beauty. The old royal road, which once connected ancient Sparta with Kardamyli, starts from Agios Panteleimon and ends at the sea of Kardamyli.
- Famous Residences: Kardamili is home to one of Greece’s most famous and beautiful houses, the residence of British writer Patrick Leigh Fermor.
Beaches
- Popular Beaches: Stoupa Beach, a long sandy beach with sunbeds, is probably the most popular and busiest beach in Western Mani. Right next to it is the similar beach of Kalogria.
- Seaside Mani: For a more traditional Mani beach experience, visit the three pebbly beaches between Kardamyli and Stoupa: Kalamitsi, Foneas, and Delfina.
Nearby Cities
If you’re staying for several days in Messinian Mani and seeking a more urban experience, spend a day in the lively and modern city of Kalamata, known for its beautiful beaches and rich nightlife.
