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The ‘Unwritten Mountains’: Into the Agrafa Wild

A road trip past sky-perched monasteries, dry canyons and deer-tracked valleys that most visitors to Greece never see

Newsroom May 29 04:41

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The peaks of the Pindus Mountains tower above you and the cobalt blue waters of the Megdovas River rush below your feet as you clatter across the old Bailey bridge in the middle of nowhere.

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Climbing the road out of the river valley, you feel like a lone explorer as the emptiness envelops you: the villages are few and far between and the winding road is empty. There are occasional signs of life here and there, but no people.

Instead, the majesty of the mountains encircles you in their embrace: their snowcapped peaks weathered and ragged, their slopes scarred by rockslides. Waterfalls and gushing springs spurt from the earth and nature’s beauty is everywhere. Birds of prey dot the skies and, if you are lucky, you will see a wild deer or a wild boar dash across the road in front of you.

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