Astypalaia: A Guide to the Aegean’s Butterfly Island

Astypalaia (read ‘Astypalea’) looks, at first, like a Cycladic island that has drifted east and has kept going. White houses climb toward a castle. Windmills stand on the ridge above Chora. The sea cuts into the island from several directions, leaving coves, bays, inlets, hard rock, tamarisk shade, and beaches that require more intention than impulse. From above, the island has the shape that gave it its most familiar nickname: the butterfly of the Aegean.

Administratively, Astypalaia belongs to the Dodecanese. Geographically and visually, it sits at the meeting point of two island worlds. Its whitewashed Chora, blue doors, limewashed lanes, and dry hillsides bring the Cyclades to mind, while its position, older history, and maritime connections place it firmly in the southeastern Aegean. That in-between quality explains much of the island’s character.

Astypalaia has become more visible in recent years, partly because of its smart-mobility project, partly because of the rise of better boutique accommodation, and partly because travelers looking beyond the standard Cycladic summer have begun to understand its appeal. Yet it remains a place that asks for some adjustment. Roads can be rough. Some beaches need a boat or a slow drive. The wind matters. The best tables and stays should be booked early. The pleasures are substantial, but they belong to travelers who enjoy a certain amount of friction with their beauty.

Ask me anything

Explore related questions

>