God Made the World, Achilles Created the Cookies — Inside Andros’ Iconic Retro Deli
The apron of the smiling gentleman who appears from the back of Andros Traditional Deli proudly reads, “God created the world, and Achilles created the cookies.” This is Achilles Grigorakakis, co-owner with his wife, Mrs. Athanasia Giannaki, of a beloved culinary gem in the heart of Andros Town. Achilles is the mastermind behind the irresistible aromas of cinnamon and orange that waft through the bustling central pedestrian street.
Since opening in 2008 as a small yet well-curated traditional Cycladic products store, the deli has grown into a food paradise with double the space, still offering artisanal, homemade products. It’s rare to see Achilles in the front of the shop. His realm is the sparkling clean kitchen at the back, which moved from Pitrofos, where it had opened in 2015. He spends almost the entire day here, as noted by Athanasia and confirmed by Achilles himself. He spends his time kneading, baking, creating with love, experimenting, and perfecting flavors. Thankfully for those who have tasted his excellent creations, despite his dream of becoming a chef, it was the sweet flavors that ultimately won him over.
The Famous Cookies, Honeyed Pastelias, and Exquisite Syrups
When Achilles is baking, the whole place smells divine. This is the truth and the answer an unsuspecting visitor will receive if they happen to stroll by during the blissful moment of baking. This was also the experience of the writer, who a few years ago, on August 15th in Andros Town, was captivated by the aroma of cinnamon in the air. It was the day of the island’s biggest religious festival, with the local Philharmonic celebrating the occasion, yet Achilles was in the kitchen baking. Such dedication and passion for his craft.
These qualities are reflected in the exquisite flavors of his irresistible sweet treats, which, despite their success and high demand, remain consistently high in quality and are continually enriched. The crispy, elongated twisted cookies remain a standout hit. Remarkably, Achilles reveals while shaping the vibrant yellow dough with intense orange flavor and aroma, it took him about three years to perfect his recipes.
Not as much for the soft pastel bites, but for the sinful cookies that turn an ordinary coffee into a delight. Their recipe remains a closely guarded secret, but observing the process of making them with orange, we were impressed by the large amount and ratio of freshly squeezed juice they contain. Naturally, there are no raising agents, preservatives, or animal fats. The variation with cinnamon—Achilles strictly uses Ceylon cinnamon—is equally delicious, with options including lemon, bergamot, and almond. Choosing is difficult, with rich aromas and aftertastes and a wonderfully crisp texture. Pairing your beverage with one of each flavor is ideal.
While in the kitchen and placing trays in the oven, Achilles also prepares pastelias. This other exceptional sweet, which makes the Traditional Deli a must-visit, encapsulates all the tradition and natural aromas of Andros in a single bite. Thanks to their own honey from hives in Vori, in the island’s eastern part, which has a unique flavor due to the region’s microclimate. As he weighs the grated breadcrumbs and spices—cinnamon and nutmeg—we observe the absence of glucose. He confirms that he never uses it, spreading sesame seeds on the counter. When the orange blossom water is added, the entire kitchen is filled with springtime aromas, as if Andros’ nature is invading the space and wants to be captured in this humble yet healthy snack, available with either coarsely chopped walnuts or almonds.
Recent Successes and Elegant New Additions
Recently, a significant success and prominent position in the elegant space have been the oriental syrups. Added to the list of sweets made in the kitchen for the past two years, this year, after attending seminars, Achilles reintroduces them: baklava, saragli, filled bowties with crispy phyllo, plain or pistachio, rich fillings of walnuts, almonds, and pistachios, with a touch of chocolate for the chocolate lovers, and golden syrup and butter with 99.8% purity that elevates the flavor and makes the aroma intoxicating.
During the Lenten season, you can now also find handmade halva from the deli, naturally produced, in classic flavors to maintain its healthy character: vanilla, almond, Aegina pistachio, and bitter chocolate that upgrades the familiar cocoa. And of course, timeless during fasting, the wonderful traditional almond sweets that also smell of rose water.
Gastronomic Treasures All Year Round
Though the fresh sweets at the Traditional Deli are purely tempting, observing the space with neatly arranged shelves adorned with lace borders and filled with shiny jars, baskets of herbs, and colorful liqueur bottles, reveals it to be a treasure chest of flavors. Spoon sweets and jams naturally take center stage and are prepared by the owner couple: lemon, rose, grape, fig, orange, cherry, and quince—beloved, authentic flavors that transport you to the age when you only cared about reaching the jar in your grandmother’s cupboard.
Alongside them, there are nut spreads for a complete breakfast, such as peanut butter, almond butter, and spreads made from pure Aegina pistachios, hazelnuts, and cashews, without added sugar. Savory options are also available. Athanasia, a skilled and enthusiastic cook, jars her wonderful tomato sauce, makes caper pesto, pickles, chutneys—her onion chutney is excellent—and a divine red pepper jam with ginger, perfect for pairing with handmade, extra crispy cheese sticks and Andros cheeses. Her pastelarias, baked with figs and combined with cinnamon, sesame, almonds, and bay leaves, are just as delightful with a shot of tsipouro on a platter of cold cuts and cheeses, even on their own.
From the abundant Traditional Deli, nothing seems to be missing. What is certainly present is the dedication and respect for tradition, for the island’s raw materials, and for Andros’ distinguished patisserie identity, known for its purity, quality, and refined flavors. These are non-negotiable values for the creative, smiling couple.
