Michalis Tyrakis: The Cretan Chef Who Is Taking Milan by Storm with His Panettone

He named it MiTo, a name with a double meaning. On one hand, it represents the cities that inspired Michalis Tyrakis’ recipe—Milan and Turin, both steeped in tradition. On the other, it symbolizes the thread (“μίτος”) he unraveled from Crete to Milan, weaving his own culinary journey. In 2021, he established MiTo’21 in the very heart of the panettone empire, creating a version of the beloved Italian treat that has captivated locals.

GALA: What led you to focus on panettone during your journey from Crete to Milan?

MICHALIS TYRAKIS: The first December I spent in Italy, I tried panettone for the first time and instantly became an avid fan. Every year, I sought out the best and most celebrated versions from renowned masters. Thirty years later, after working with prestigious pastry companies, I decided to channel my expertise into crafting my own take on the classic Milanese panettone.

G.: Was it easy to win over the Italians?

M.T.: Italians are passionate about good food, and you can’t fool them with something that lacks substance. Milanese, in particular, are business-oriented and hold high standards of meritocracy—they don’t care where you’re from, only if you do the job right. The fact that Milan’s top wine cellars, delis, and major companies choose my panettone for their stores or corporate gifts speaks for itself. And as you can imagine, there’s no shortage of competition from Italian bakers.

G.: What was the biggest challenge in creating your panettone?

M.T.: Managing the sourdough starter in such a rich recipe. It’s a living organism that requires meticulous care. You need to create the perfect environment for it to grow, develop, and deliver the desired results. We constantly monitor parameters like temperature and pH with precision.

G.: And the most rewarding moment in perfecting the recipe?

M.T.: The recipe is always evolving, but I’ll never forget the first trials—especially that one moment when I closed my eyes and truly savored the balance and depth of flavor we had achieved.

G.: What do your customers say makes your panettone special?

M.T.: Most highlight its rich, buttery aroma and the soft, melt-in-the-mouth texture. Many also praise the organic Cretan sultanas and the carefully selected citrus ingredients.

G.: Do you experiment with the classic Italian recipe, or do you prefer to refine it while staying true to tradition?

M.T.: We are always innovating, but we remain within the framework of the traditional Milanese panettone. This means it must contain raisins, orange, citron, and specific proportions of butter and egg yolk to be classified as “Panettone Milano.”

G.: In Greece, we associate panettone exclusively with Christmas. Is it the same in Italy, or is it enjoyed year-round?

M.T.: Efforts are being made to promote it year-round, but the perception that it’s a Christmas delicacy remains deeply ingrained.

G.: Besides panettone, do you offer other products?

M.T.: Along with different variations of panettone, MiTo’21 has introduced a rich pistachio cream. More spreads are on the way, and our next big project is “Tsurekone”—a fusion of panettone’s airy, sourdough-like texture with the fragrant flavors of Greek tsoureki, including mastiha, mahleb, and cardamom. Even before its official release, it won two stars at the Great Taste Awards.

G.: If you had to recommend one purely Cretan—or at least Greek—dessert to Italians, what would it be?

M.T.: I always suggest they try galaktoboureko—my personal favorite, especially the one my mother makes. And if they visit Crete, they absolutely must try kalitsounia. ◆