Beans, bitter greens, a modest cut of meat: much of Greek cooking begins with ingredients that reward patience and attention. Across Athens, chefs are finding fresh possibilities in that everyday repertoire. A vegetable gets a turn over charcoal; a familiar sauce acquires a sharper edge; an island cheese gives an otherwise simple plate its character.
Menus often change with the market, so a dish worth remembering may be gone by the next visit. That is part of the attraction. Rather than arrive with an order already decided, ask what the kitchen is cooking that day. Leave room for something you would usually overlook.
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