By October the sun sits lower, the hills are walkable at midday again, and even the busiest stretches of the center loosen up. These routes run from the national garden and a pine-covered hill to a whitewashed island village and a climb to a lookout on one of the city’s prettiest parks.
Each comes with things to see along the way and a few places to step indoors when the afternoon cools: small cafés, workshops, galleries and bars where the regulars have been the same for years.
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