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A “Jasmine” worth €2.8 million: The story of Plaka’s famous place

The journey of the shop that became a romantic cinematic setting in Christoforos Papakaliatis’ film "What If..." was abruptly interrupted when the property was sold to the Nice n Easy group

Newsroom April 8 11:29

In the heart of Plaka, on one of the most picturesque and storied streets of Athens, a property has changed hands — and with it, an era filled with the scent of jasmine, homemade pies, and stories written with a view of the Acropolis has come to a close.

The property that housed the iconic bistro “Yasemi” for 16 years — a symbol of Athenian romance and a constant presence in Plaka — was sold for €2.8 million to a company affiliated with the Nice n Easy group.

On one side of the agreement were the four heirs of Yiannis Kouklis, the previous owner of the property. On the other was the legal representative of the company connected to the Nice n Easy group, which operates several restaurants in Athens and Mykonos.

The property, according to the contract, covers a total area of 344.06 square meters and holds a prime position on the famous steps of Mnisikleous Street — where the pace of the city slows, and laughter, casual chatter, and the piano melodies from inside Yasemi fill the air.

In Cinema, 2012

While the news of the sale is primarily of financial interest, “Yasemi” was far more than just another leased venue. It was a landmark, a living entity infused with emotional value, memories, and a past intertwined with culture and cinema.

In 2012, the bistro became the setting for many of the defining scenes in the romantic film “What If…” (“An…”) by Christoforos Papakaliatis. The film, which became a box office hit and left a strong mark on Greek cinema, unfolds in Plaka, with “Yasemi” playing a role almost equal to the protagonists: that of a bygone era, a dreamlike backdrop, the Athens we all wish to remember.

When the film was released, Yasemi had only been open for three years. Still, it had already established itself as a point of reference, with its distinctive style — colorful tables cascading down the steps and an atmosphere that felt straight out of an old Greek movie. Through Papakaliatis’ film, Yasemi became beloved throughout Greece. It became an inseparable part of an aesthetic that rekindled romanticism during a time when everything around seemed darkened by the economic crisis.

Αν (trnslt. “What If…”) tells the story of the sudden, intense love between Dimitris, a sensitive director (played by Papakaliatis himself), and Christina, a charming architect (played by Marina Kalogirou).

From the very first scenes, the camera turns to the steps of Mnisikleous Street and to “Yasemi”, presenting it as much more than just a backdrop. The bistro gradually becomes a recurring meeting point for the couple — a place where meaningful glances are exchanged, truths are spoken, and their relationship matures. Through the lens, “Yasemi” transforms into a symbol of an entire emotional universe — a refuge where the protagonists find peace, intimacy, and the feeling that, if only for a moment, the world can stand still.

Many people traveled from other parts of the city — even from abroad — just to sit on its steps, sip rose liqueur, take photos in front of the purple façade, and breathe in, for a little while, the old, nostalgic Athens. Now, with the change in ownership, the lights of “Yasemi” have gone out. But the news of its sale is not just another line in the Land Registry or a business transaction — it marks the end of an era.

The Next Chapter

What does the future hold for this historic spot? The next chapter for the property promises to be different, yet not detached from its past, as the new owners have expressed a clear intent to fully respect the history and aesthetic of the place. They plan to preserve almost entirely the image that established it in the hearts of the public.

One thing is certain: for thousands of Athenians — and even more visitors — “Yasemi” will never be just an address in Plaka, but a memory scented with basil and fresh homemade dessert from the baking tray.

The story behind the closure of “Yasemi” is far from the romantic image the café itself gifted to Plaka all these years.

Although the new owners of the property — the company associated with the Nice n Easy group — expressed from the very beginning their intent to preserve the character, aura, and unique aesthetic of the place, assuring that they would “respect the legacy of the business and continue the tradition with dignity,” the transition process proved to be much more complex and emotionally charged than perhaps anyone had anticipated.

“Yasemi” was not just another commercial venture. It was an extension of the soul of Mariza Kouzeli, the woman who envisioned it, built it from scratch, and nurtured it as her personal creation. That’s why she wasn’t willing to give it up without a fight. Despite the expiration of the lease, she continued operating the café, keeping the doors open and the lights on — a silent act of resistance against a reality she refused to accept. At the same time, she turned to the courts, legally seeking the right to remain in the property and continue running the business.

The Disbanding

The legal dispute with the new owners lasted almost a year — filled with tension, anxiety, and the uncertain wait for a final verdict. During this time, Ms. Kouzeli kept working, welcoming customers, decorating the steps, and watering her jasmine plants.

The court ruling definitively ended the lease, forcing her to vacate. And so, not with a farewell ceremony, but with the sounds of tools, cardboard boxes, and hurried packing, the disbanding began. As often happens with places deeply loved, the departure was anything but neutral. It became a quiet battle with time and memory. Ms. Kouzeli is now trying to gather what she can: furniture, lighting fixtures, chairs, and the objects that shaped the space’s unique atmosphere and became part of its identity. Each item, each table, each handwritten note on the chalkboard is being moved with care — not just for practical reasons, but because they carry the memory of an era when “Yasemi” wasn’t just a bistro, but a luminous Athenian landmark full of scents, light, and emotion.

This move isn’t just logistical — it’s deeply emotional. It’s an effort to preserve a piece of time, with the quiet hope that someday, somewhere else, a setting can be recreated that will evoke — even briefly — that little corner of Plaka that hosted Athens’ most photographed and beloved café.

According to her personal account, Ms. Kouzeli recalls with emotion the moment everything began: it was Holy Saturday of 2009, around 6 p.m., just as the Holy Light was making its way up to the Metochi (church). Yiannis Kouklis, the property owner, asked her to bring it with a lantern. When she returned, he lit a tall candle, made the sign of the cross above the door, and simply said: “May it be blessed.” That moment marked the birth of “Yasemi” — not as a mere business, but as something far more meaningful. A space destined to become a point of reference in Plaka, a haven of senses and memories.

A Journey Through Time

According to sources from Proto Thema, at that time, Yiannis Kouklis had offered Ms. Kouzeli the opportunity to buy the property, expressing his desire to hand over the shop he saw flourishing in her hands. However, the deal never came to fruition.

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As she herself describes it, “Yasemi” was not just about the delicious dishes that came out of the kitchen, inspired by her grandmother’s recipes and stories, nor just about the fragrant beverages and traditional concoctions. It was something far deeper: the people who loved it, the musicians who gave its journey a soundtrack, the staff who worked behind the counter with passion, and the everyday life that was built within it — from delightful breakfasts on the steps of Mnisikleous, to sun-drenched midday lunches, and evenings filled with the sounds of the piano, often playing melodies by Hatzidakis.

As she recounts her final moments in the space, just a few days before this year’s Easter — in the early hours of Monday, March 31 — the emotion is palpable.

The café may be empty now, but her soul is not. “Tonight, we embrace with gratitude the cushions on which you so lazily rested your love and trust,” she writes, while Nikos Dimitrokalis lifts the piano from its place. And just like that, they set sail for other seas, their luggage filled with unforgettable moments, melodies, and the scent of jasmine that will continue to drift forever through the streets of Plaka.

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