At dusk in Molyvos, the sun-soaked Byzantine castle turns molten in the last rays, a survivor standing firmly atop a black, glittering hill of stunningly maintained stone houses and bougainvillea. Below, the Aegean shifts from metallic cobalt to a velvety midnight blue.

Along pretty cobbled lanes, the evening gathers momentum, as ouzo starts to pour, mouthwatering smells waft from taverna kitchens and sunburnt visitors glow. By the seafront, chairs are set for another night of chamber music, the reflective Yamaha grand piano already waiting. When the bow first touches the strings, the sound carries dramatically out across the water.

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