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Serifos Guide: The Cycladic Art of Keeping Things Simple

This understated Cyclades island, hardy and unhurried, is finding a wider audience as the rest of the archipelago grows louder

Newsroom June 26 07:49

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Serifos sits in the Western Cyclades, close enough to Piraeus for a direct summer crossing and different enough from its neighbors to feel like a fresh proposition. The island has no need for decorative persuasion. Rock, wind, dry hills, mining scars, white chapels, hard paths, tamarisk shade, and beaches reached by road or boat give it a character that is immediately visible and not easy for all. But that very challenge is part of its appeal.

The ferry arrives at Livadi, the port and practical base of the island, set below the high white settlement of Chora. The bay provides the first usable ‘map’ of Serifos: ferries, cafes, rental offices, restaurants, the long beach of Avlomonas, the smaller curve of Livadakia, and the steep road climbing toward the island’s capital. Above it all, Chora holds the image most visitors remember – that of a Cycladic settlement piled high on the slope, with the Kastro on top, looking out across the water.

Serifos is often described as simple, but the island is certainly not lacking in substance, and its land carries many layers of history. There is the mythic Serifos of Danae and Perseus. There is the ancient island, visible in the archaeological finds of Chora and in the marble White Tower near Megalo Chorio. There is the medieval hilltop settlement, built for height and protection. There is the mining island of the southwest, where iron extraction shaped labor, wealth, violence, and memory. There is also the contemporary Serifos of ceramics, design-led stays, yoga retreats, restored miners’ houses, and small restaurants that still depend on chickpeas, capers, fennel, honey, goat, fish, and local cheese.

The result is one of the most rewarding islands in the Western Cyclades for travelers who like landscape with a past attached to it.

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