Kolonaki. One of the oldest districts of Athens. Deeply urban, worldly, and intellectual at its core. Its streets host some of the most important examples of Greek architectural modernism. Its charming uphill slopes lead to tiny stairways and stone pathways lined with greenery. Mount Lycabettus stands overhead as a vigilant guardian — a divine mark left by Pallas Athena herself, according to Greek mythology. Who am I to question the beauty of an area whose charm may fade at times, only to return stronger with each passing era? At the corner of Patriarchou Ioakeim and Ploutarchou Street stands Malconi’s.

A constant presence in the Athenian dining scene for fifteen years, Malconi’s built its reputation step by step — without fanfare or exaggeration — creating its own small, cosmopolitan, and flavorful legend over the past decade. Now under the umbrella of S-One Hospitality, it retains all the charming habits of its past, while shifting into higher gear in the kitchen. The food remains modern with an Italian heart, occasionally infused with international and contemporary influences.

We sat outside on the uphill stretch of Ploutarchou Street, in a cluster of four tables that, despite the restaurant’s cosmopolitan character and the feel-good atmosphere of the interior or the terrace on Patriarchou Ioakeim, offers guests a discreet sense of intimacy and quiet — broken only by hints of ’80s and ’90s European hits, the soft movements of the service staff, and the low conversations from nearby tables. People enjoying a well-priced bottle of wine curated by one of the group’s two wine directors, Maria Roussi, alongside the dishes of Malconi’s.

The Kitchen of Malconi’s

Executive Chef Dimitris Stamoudis and Chef de Cuisine Giannis Sofianos dive deep into the sacred traditions of Italian pasta, boldly and successfully tackling classics like amatriciana (even if guanciale gives way to smoked pancetta) or a cacio e pepe made with a smooth Pecorino Romano cream and pasta water. One of the restaurant’s signature dishes takes a front-row seat on the concise menu: the gnocchi. You’ll hardly see a table without them — potato dumplings paired with sage butter, prosciutto, Parmesan cream, and almonds.

Beef carpaccio and tartare, a vitello tonnato with tender meat and a balanced tuna sauce, and a roasted eggplant with watercress, tomato, basil, and ricotta — a dish we tried for the first time and found wonderfully aromatic — make up the majority of the starters. The pizza, made with a 24-hour fermented dough, is light, with a well-defined cornicione, modest air pockets, and a thin base. All the classic recipes are present. The crispy porchetta with carrot and orange sauce and the tagliata with polenta, truffle, and Parmesan star in the meat section.

And no evening in an Italian-inspired restaurant can end without tiramisu. Here, atmosphere, music, beautiful people, and good food create a promenade of emotions and moments that keep the restaurant’s charming character burning bright.

Info
Malconi’s, 43 Patriarchou Ioakeim & 23 Ploutarchou, Athens
Tel. 210 7248920